We’ve heard this a lot at animal swaps and other events: “Oh, an angora rabbit. You have to brush those every day. Come on, let’s look at the other bunnies.”

Is it true? Do we brush our angoras every day at Cotton Patch Farms? And if we don’t, what do we do?

In this post, we’ll explain how we care for our Satin Angoras, what we do with their luscious coats, our herd goals at Cotton Patch Farms, how Satin Angoras differ from other fluffy rabbit breeds, and finally how our rehoming process works. We’ve also included a list of angora rabbit terms and a few helpful links at the bottom of the page. We do not have any affiliate relationships with any companies we’ve linked to below.

How we care for our Satin Angora rabbits

Housing

On a farm, sturdy, safe housing is essential. We choose to use cages due to their sanitary nature, ease of cleaning, durability, and high friendliness to airflow. Our cages are custom-made out of heavy-duty wire, and every cage has a spot in the frame that we built into our bunny barn. We use concrete mixing tubs below each cage to catch all droppings and food remnants. We add pine pellets to the tubs to absorb extra moisture and cut down on smell.

When weather permits, we use moving pens and playpens as our schedule permits. We love the benefits of our rabbits interacting with dirt and snacking on plants, but we value their safety from predators and parasites as well.

Our herd is kept out of the elements in our bunny barn, which keeps the rabbits and their feed out of the rain and out of the summer sun. We give them as much fresh air as possible when the weather warms with the aid of several fans. We also brush the sides of the cages and fans down every few days to keep airflow at its best. “Bunny cobwebs” can form quickly when our rabbits are shedding and staying on top of that is important for airflow and cleanliness.

Feed and Water

Fresh water and feed is a must. We use an automated water system, but often use bowls or bottles as well so that our rabbits will be ready to handle different setups. For feed, the best option that is available locally for us is Show Hutch Deluxe® 17. We have also used Manna Pro Gro but it has been harder to source. Angora coats take a lot of protein, so a high-protein feed is vital for healthy rabbits and great coats.

We also feed hay as needed (generally only to rabbits that are shedding or show signs of wool block) and use it for nestbox bedding. We usually feed a simple grass hay since their pellets’ main ingredient is high quality hay.

We do give our rabbits treats when they are available, but we do this with caution. An animal that is used to dry feed does not have the gut fauna to suddenly deal with a large amount of fresh greens. We don’t want to shock our herd’s systems. Young rabbits especially have more delicate systems, so we give them hay treats, instead. And everyone appreciates a good chew toy.

Personal care

It’s a good thing that we don’t have to brush angora bunnies every day, because we don’t own a bunny brush!

Here’s what we do own: Gimars electric clippers with multiple length guards, metal comb, scissors, nail trimmers, and a “pet blower” (we’ve found that our air compressor works quite well at the right setting and distance). But why no brush? Experts say that brushing an angora coat weakens the hair shafts. Blowing is the recommended way to groom.

Our Satin Angoras have slick coats that are pretty low maintenance for a fiber breed. If we’re prepping for a show, a few minutes with the blower once a week will keep their coats neat and mat-free. The rest of the time, we tend to leave them to their own devices and by the time they shed, the harvestable part of the coat usually only has a few small mats on the neck or bum. We harvest coats when they are naturally shedding, and we can do this by hand, with scissors, or with the clippers, which is the fastest method. During summer conditions, we keep our herd trimmed down and the clippers do a great job with that. Our comb gets used for picture day to straighten coats but gets a fair bit of use cleaning wisps of fiber off of our grooming table after each rabbit is done.

For non-coat care, we keep up with regular nail trims and keep an eye on everyone’s general condition. We have a pretty problem-free herd, but it’s always good to be observant and keep up with a small supply of rabbit-safe meds in case something goes wrong.

Satin Angora fiber

Why Satin Angora fiber? Because it’s shiny! All angora fiber is described as buttery soft, but Satin Angoras have a translucent, gleaming coat that feels like touching a cloud. Their luxury fiber is perfect for next-to-skin projects. Satin Angora fiber is also the finest and lightest of all angora breeds, which explains why it has the most expensive price per ounce – a lighter fiber means more fiber per ounce!

This year, we’ve started selling “bunny snow” ornaments made from our Satin Angora fiber! You can support our rabbits and enjoy the raw beauty of the Satin Angora coat, no spinning required. Check out our Farm Products page to see if we have any bunny snow ornaments in stock.

Hollow hair shafts actually make angora fiber both lighter and warmer than sheep’s wool. Because it’s such a warm fiber, it tends to get blended with other wools when made into yarn. If you’d like to try out some custom-made yarn, check out ArtSpinnings! One of our family members owns this small business and is the artisan that makes it all happen. We are happy to provide her with Satin Angora fiber.

We are always happy to connect with new fiber customers. If you’re looking for raw Satin Angora fiber, please let us know. We generally have a few different colors available and a few different price points.

And what about the fiber that we don’t sell? Fiber that is too short, too dirty, or too matted goes into our compost pile or our into our garden as mulch. We’ve heard that angora fiber makes excellent slow-release fertilizer, and considering that all of our summer trims were buried under leaves in the garden and the leaves are still there but the fiber is gone . . . the earthworms must like it. Fiber sometimes helps out on the farm, as well. If a mother rabbit didn’t pull enough of her own coat for her nest, she’ll accept donations. We’ve also used angora fiber to keep developing eggs warm during emergency transport, used a bag of it as a temporary mom situation for ducklings, and we’ll probably find more ways to use it. It only takes a minute to twist some into yarn. That’s definitely a great feature for an all-purpose emergency farm fiber!

Cotton Patch Farms rabbits

Cotton Patch Farms is registered with the American Rabbit Breeders Association. We breed toward the ARBA show standard and attend local shows when we are able to. Our Satin Angora herd is pedigreed and we keep careful records of breedings, litters, health histories, and more. We select for high quality animals with excellent conformation and great coats.

Our main goal is to have a vigorous herd that is very low maintenance. For us, this means that we choose breeders that thrive here on our farm. Since our rabbits also need to fill a dual purpose role (fiber and meat), we prioritize excellent conformation. We also are working to improve coat quality. And we have been glad to add several rabbits with laid-back personalities to our herd, so we expect to have more friendly bunnies in the future.

Our foundation animals came from Dire Wolf Rabbitry, Somerhill Farm, and Greenleaves Angoras. Thank you so much for helping us get started!

Satin Angoras versus other fluffy breeds

The Satin Angora isn’t the only fluffy rabbit out there. There are several angora breeds, and even a few rabbit breeds that aren’t angoras or bred for fiber production. This is a quick overview of several of the fluffy breeds.

Please be aware that while some of the information is based on official breed standards, not all of the information is going to be completely accurate. For example, while an online search says that Satin Angoras produce 8 oz of fiber a year, we know a Satin Angora breeder who collected 7.5 oz from a single harvest. The quality of a rabbit depends largely on the breeder, not just the breed it comes from or the information that can be found online. Most show rabbit breeders are actively working to improve several traits in their breed.

Satin Angora

Appearance: big glossy coat and no facial furnishings. Adult weight: 6.5-9.5 lb. Commercial type. Coat texture: very fine, high luster, dense. Recognized by ARBA since 1987. Considered the rarest type of angora and produces the most expensive fiber. Production: 8+ oz/year.

French Angora

Appearance: big smooth coat and no facial furnishings, sometimes tufted ears. Adult weight: 7.5-10.5 lb. Commercial type. Coat texture: plenty of guard hair, coarser, dense. Recognized by ARBA. Considered the closest modern breed to the original angora. Production: 12-16 oz/year.

English Angora

Appearance: ball of fluff with facial furnishings, fuzzy ears, and fuzzy feet. Adult weight: 5-7.5 lb. Compact type. Coat texture: fine, cottony, very dense, less guard hairs. Recognized by ARBA. Often considered the highest maintenance coat. Production: 12-16 oz/year.

Giant Angora

Appearance: large fluffy rabbit with forehead and cheek furnishings, tasseled ears. Adult weight: 9.5+ lb. Commercial type. Coat texture: medium fine, very dense, majority underwool. Recognized by ARBA since 1988. The largest angora breed. Production: 16-32 oz/year.

German Angora

Appearance: large fluffy rabbit with tasseled legs, ears, forehead, and cheeks. Coat texture: silky, dense, heavily crimped. Adult weight: 7-11.5 lb. Loaf-shaped type. Not recognized by ARBA. A very high production animal. Production: 45+ oz/year.

Jersey Woolly

Appearance: Little fuzzy rabbit with short ears. Adult weight: 3.5 lb or under. Compact type. Recognized by ARBA since 1988. Not an angora and coat is not harvested.

Lionhead

Appearance: Small rabbit with fuzzy mane. Adult weight: 3.75 lb. Compact type. Recognized by ARBA since 2014. Not an angora and coat is not harvested.

American Fuzzy Lop

Appearance: Small fuzzy rabbit with pendulous ears and round head. Adult weight: 4 lb or under. Compact type. Recognized by ARBA. Not an angora and coat is not harvested.

When deciding which rabbit breed would be the best fit for you, you’ll want to be able to compare each breed to what you are looking for. For example, if you are looking for a fluffy pet rabbit for a child, the Jersey Wooly, Lionhead, and American Fuzzy Lop breeds are small, fluffy, and do not produce angora fiber. If you are just looking for a rabbit, we would recommend finding a rabbit with a standard short coat. If you don’t want to take care of a fluffy coat, don’t get a fluffy rabbit!

If you are looking for a rabbit that produces fiber, be sure to think about your goals. Do you have a specific type of angora fiber in mind? Does the size of the animal matter to you? Do you prefer a certain appearance? Are you planning to find one or two rabbits to give you a lifetime supply of angora fiber, or are you planning to breed? It’s important to be selective about breeding animals. You’ll want to be certain that you won’t be passing down health problems or poor coats. If you are planning to show your rabbit, then you will want to find a breeder who has quality show animals. Whatever your goals are, take the time to find a breeder whose rabbits are a good fit for you.

How our rehoming process works

When we have rabbits for sale, we will generally post them on our website (here). If we don’t have any rabbits listed for sale, please email us and let us know that you would like to join our Satin Angora waitlist. Our breedings are influenced by our waitlist, so please let us know if you are looking for anything specific.

Before adding an angora to your life, you will want to make sure that you are prepared. You will need adequate housing (a sturdy cage, hutch, or appropriate pen), feed and water containers (bowls, bottles, or feeders), appropriate feed (17-18% protein), hay, comb and scissors (clippers and a pet blower are useful but optional), and nail trimmers. We highly recommend a fan if your rabbit will be outside in warm weather, and its enclosure must be well shaded for summer.

Local pickup: If you are picking up locally, you will need to have some sort of carrier to transport your rabbit in. You may inspect your rabbit before purchasing. We will send you home with transition feed. If you are purchasing an animal for showing or breeding, we will also give you its pedigree. We are located in Suffolk, Virginia, USA.

Transporter service: We are occasionally able to work with a transporter service. This option is only available at our discretion and when we have several animals available for sale. We are not currently working with transport.

While your animal is transitioning to its new home, we recommend keeping it in a quiet environment until it has settled in, especially if it has been transported through a service. We also recommend a 30 day quarantine away from other rabbits. When your rabbit is home with you, keep an eye on its appetite and general condition. We recommend feeding hay if you notice any signs of fiber ingestion (droppings will be connected by a string of fiber). If you intend to transition the rabbit to a different brand of feed, please switch over gradually. Please let us know if you have any concerns or questions while your rabbit is settling in.

Terms for bunnies

It may be helpful to understand some of the terms that are used for angoras and rabbits in general.

SA, FA, EA, GA: these are abbreviations for Satin, French, English, and Giant Angoras.
Brood quality: this is an animal that can be used to produce show quality offspring, but may not be show quality itself.
Show quality: this is an animal that meets the ARBA show standard and is expected to perform well on the show table.
Wooler: this is an animal that is healthy and intended for wool production only – it should not be bred, due to age, not having enough desirable traits for the breed, or having a physical reason not to be bred, such as pinched hindquarters.
Retired: this is an animal being retired from a show or breeding career, and often will be no older than 3 or 4 years old and ready to live a long life as a wooler.
Cull: this means that an animal is being removed from a breeding program, often to become a wooler.
Pedigree: this is a family tree/record of ancestry that for rabbits should include three generations of parents, their ID numbers, and their weights.
Full pedigree: also called “complete pedigree,” this means that the rabbit pedigree contains all required information for three generations of parents.
Registerable: this animal has a complete pedigree and should meet ARBA’s requirements for registration – please note that rabbits on the pedigree do not need to be registered for offspring to be registered.
Registered: this animal is registered through ARBA.
Registrar: an ARBA Registrar is the only person who can register a rabbit with the ARBA if the rabbit meets all requirements (the ARBA requires an animal to be 6 months of age, meet weight/appearance requirements of its breed and color, and have a complete pedigree).
Leg: a show leg is earned by a win at an ARBA show that meets certain requirements, and since it is an important win it will often be listed on the pedigree.
ARBA Open Show: an Open Show is a rabbit show that’s open to all ages and allows all recognized breeds and colors.
ARBA Youth Show: a Youth Show is a rabbit show that can only have youth exhibitors (ages 5 – 19) and allows all recognized breeds and colors.
Exhibitor: this is the person showing a rabbit.
Sanctioned breed: this means that a specific breed has been sanctioned with its national breed club, and means that exhibitors who show that breed and are members of that breed club will receive sweepstakes points with the club for wins. (If you are not a member of a breed club, a breed being sanctioned or not does not affect you at all. All recognized breeds and colors can be shown at all ARBA shows.)
Show catalog: this is a document that contains information about a show, generally in the form of a PDF.
Senior: this is a rabbit that is over the age of six months.
Junior: this is a rabbit that is under the age of six months.
Proven: this is a rabbit that has successfully reproduced before.
Ready to breed: this is a mature rabbit that is not currently bred.
Lines: this refers to the animal’s family tree, and often refers to a trait that has consistently shown up there.
Plucking lines: this means that a rabbit comes from lines that shed/blow their coats regularly, and the fiber can be “plucked” (gently harvested by hand) when the animal is naturally shedding.
Non-plucking lines: this means that a rabbit comes from lines that do not regularly shed, and the coat must be harvested by clipping.
Plucking: this is the act of harvesting a mature coat by hand, and is simply collecting fiber that is already loose on the animal and ready to come off.
Shearing/clipping: this is the act of harvesting or trimming a coat by using electric clippers, shears, or scissors.
Blowing a coat: this means shedding a coat, and when this happens, the animal’s coat usually has trailing wisps like a partially-blown dandelion.
Sheen: this is the trademark of the Satin Angora, and is a satiny, translucent quality to the coat.
Low sheen: this means that a Satin Angora does not have adequate sheen/satiny texture in its coat.
Coarse: this means a coat that is overall rougher to the touch, and often means a higher percentage of guard hairs.
Cottony: this means that the coat is very soft and lacking some structure, like cotton, and is common in juvenile coats.
Crimp: this is a zigzag/wavy texture that is ideal in the underwool of an angora coat.
Guard hair: also called Awn hair, this is a long, straight hair in a wooled coat.
Awn fluff: an intermediate type of fiber hair that is crimped but has a straight tip.
Underwool: this is a shorter, crimped hair in a wooled coat.
Angora fiber: this is the correct name for wool from an angora rabbit.
Staple length: the length of harvested angora fiber.
Prime: the best, longest part of a coat and the best, longest fiber.
Conformation: this is the physical shape of a rabbit, and show rabbits should match the ARBA standard.
Type: this means body type and is a synonym for conformation.
Depth: this is how high the rabbit’s back is, and in breeds with commercial type higher is considered better.
Peak: this refers to the highest point on the rabbit’s back.
Hindquarters: this is indeed the rabbit’s rear end.
Balanced: this means that all parts and pieces are proportionate to each other, and is ideal.
DQ: this means disqualification, and an animal that has one cannot be registered or shown (although it may produce suitable offspring).
Parts rabbit: this is a rabbit whose conformation can be used to improve type in offspring, for example a rabbit that has very wide shoulders.
Fiber seeds: this is a term that’s sometimes used for baby angora bunnies.
Apartment sheep: this is a fun term for an angora rabbit.

Helpful links

Here’s a free beginner’s guide to angoras: https://www.nationalangorarabbitbreeders.com/assets/images/A-Beginners-Guide-to-Angoras.pdf

This book is often recommended for new angora owners: The Nervous New Owner’s Guide to Angora Rabbits, by Suzie Sugrue

Here’s an article that compares the qualities of different angora fibers: https://www.hjsstudio.com/angora.html#:~:text=Yes%2C%20all%20angora%20is%20soft,the%20undercoat%20of%20the%20bunny.

This is an excellent guide to angora colors: https://www.angorafiber.com/angora-color-gallery.html

If you’re hoping to save money by growing your own rabbit feed, this book is a great place to start your research: Feeding Meat Rabbits for Free, by Megan Hight (just keep in mind that angoras need more protein than other rabbits)

Thanks for reading, and if you have any feedback, corrections, or helpful links, please let us know!